By Bekki Lubert — A Collector, Not an Investor
⚠️ Disclaimer: I am NOT a Pokémon investor. I’m just a collector who loves the hobby. This guide is for educational and entertainment purposes only — not financial advice. Please do your own research before spending money on anything discussed here.
🧭 Step 1: Collecting vs. Investing — Know the Difference
Let’s start with a major truth:
Collecting and investing are two very different things.
- Collecting is about joy. You buy cards because they make you happy — for the art, nostalgia, or that one holo you pulled in 1999 that still gives you chills.
- Investing is about money. You buy cards with the goal of selling them later for a profit.
I’m a collector. I love the hunt, the stories behind the cards, and building my own personal collection. But this post is for those of you who are curious about Pokémon investing — what it is, how it works, and how to avoid burning cash on hype.
💡 Step 2: Pick Your Investment Style
There are three common ways people try to invest in Pokémon cards:
🃏 Raw Singles (Ungraded Cards)
- Usually cheaper
- Can be flipped or graded
- Riskier — condition matters A LOT
🏆 Graded Cards (PSA, CGC, BGS)
- Professionally authenticated and scored (1–10)
- PSA 10s have the most value
- Safer for long-term holds, but grading costs money
📦 Sealed Products (Booster Boxes, ETBs, Packs)
- Never opened = untouched value
- Appreciate over time, especially if out of print
- Less risky, but slower returns and takes up space
🔍 Step 3: Do Real Research
Pokémon investing isn’t about vibes. It’s about data, timing, and understanding the market.
Use These Tools:
- TCGPlayer – For live market prices
- eBay Sold Listings – What cards actually sell for
- PokémonPrices.com – For raw and graded trends
- PriceCharting – Especially helpful for sealed product values
- PSA Pop Reports – Shows how many PSA 10s exist
Know What to Look For:
- Set popularity and print history (older = usually safer)
- Card condition (flaws = value drop)
- Grading potential (some cards skyrocket when graded)
- Rarity and demand (Charizard, Umbreon, alt arts)
- Print status (Modern sets can get reprinted — and drop)
⚠️ Step 4: Understand the Risks
Here’s where most new investors mess up:
They think Pokémon is a guaranteed win. It’s not.
Common Risks:
- Reprints — Modern sets can get reprinted and tank sealed value
- Fake cards — Especially for high-value items
- Damaged cards — Even tiny flaws ruin resale potential
- Overpaying — Buying during hype spikes leads to losses
- Grading disappointment — Mint-looking cards sometimes come back PSA 7 or 8
Tips to Protect Yourself:
- Buy from reputable sellers
- Learn how to spot fakes (especially for vintage and alt arts)
- Handle and store cards properly (see Step 8)
- Don’t buy based on hype — buy based on facts
💸 Step 5: Start Small and Set a Budget
If you’re just getting started, treat it like a hobby with potential — not a retirement plan.
Smart First Steps:
- Set a small budget ($100–$300)
- Choose one or two graded cards you like
- Or buy a sealed product from a strong set and leave it sealed
- Track everything in a spreadsheet: what you bought, how much, and why
🧪 Step 6: Understand Grading
Grading a card means sending it to a company like PSA, CGC, or BGS for authentication and a condition score. A high grade (PSA 10) can multiply your card’s value — sometimes dramatically.
Should You Grade It?
Ask:
- Is it truly mint?
- Is it a valuable or popular card?
- Are there very few PSA 10s of that card?
Grading Costs:
- PSA: ~$15–$30 per card + shipping
- CGC/BGS: Similar, but PSA typically holds stronger resale value
Don’t waste grading fees on low-value cards unless you’re doing it for personal reasons.
🚪 Step 7: Learn How to Sell
Buying is easy. Selling is where you find out if your investment paid off.
Where to Sell:
- eBay – Huge reach, but high fees
- TCGPlayer – Best for raw cards and casual sellers
- Facebook groups / Discord servers – More profit, more risk
- Local card shops or shows – Low hassle, but they may offer less than market value
Pricing Tip:
Use eBay’s sold listings, not current listings, to set your price. People can ask for anything — what they actually get paid is what matters.
📦 Step 8: Store Everything Like It’s Worth Money
A PSA 10 card becomes a PSA 7 real fast if you scratch it, bend it, or toss it in a drawer.
Proper Storage:
- Use penny sleeves + top loaders for raw cards
- Card savers for grading submissions
- Keep graded slabs in protective cases or display boxes
- Store sealed boxes in a cool, dark place — no stacking, no sunlight
Even sealed products lose value if the plastic wrap is ripped or scuffed.
🎭 Step 9: Don’t Fall for the Influencer Flex
Social media is full of people showing off full binders of Charizards, stacks of PSA 10s, and sealed booster boxes that cost more than your car. But here’s the deal:
What you see online isn’t always real.
A lot of influencers:
- Show only their best pulls
- Buy with sponsor money or store credit
- Overpay and never talk about the losses
Just because someone flashes a $10,000 card doesn’t mean they made a $10,000 profit.
The Reality Check:
- Don’t compare your wallet to someone’s highlight reel
- Don’t FOMO into buying because someone on TikTok said it’s “about to moon”
- Build your collection or investment strategy around your goals — not theirs
🎯 Final Thoughts
Let me say it one last time:
I’m not an investor — I’m a collector.
I collect Pokémon cards because I love them. I’ve learned a lot from watching the market, and I enjoy understanding what makes certain cards or sets more valuable. But I’m not out here flipping cards for profit every day.
If you’re thinking about investing in Pokémon:
- Start small
- Do your research
- Be honest about your goals
- And don’t forget to enjoy the process
Because when the money side gets stressful, the love of the hobby is what keeps you going.